"Defense" knife question...

[Aglifter]

Now, I'm not so certain there is such a thing for me -- if, for no other reason, than I haven't become completely decrepit, and I know how to use my hands far more than a knife. (Even if I can't use them to tie iron bars in knots anymore...)

I'm still not certain I accept the premise that a folding knife is useful aside from assasination, or cutting string. (I never really quite grasped the idea that somehow it was more useful to use one than a gun, if for no other reason, than I've had my leg cut to the bone, about 1/8th of the way around, and didn't even feel it happen.)

Is there a decent folder to buy? When they were still a US made product, I carried a superknife, but the last of those walked off - now, I've been carrying a retractable Stanley box cutter -- $10, US made, a decent little tool.

I bought a Benchmade years ago -- still have it somewhere, but it has a liner lock, which I don't think is a good thing for social purposes -- don't know why, I wouldn't think there would be much stress there, but, as I said, I know nothing about defensive knife stuff.

(If I could, I'd carry a sword cane, because A) there are nifty ones made in RSA and B) I know the basics of fencing.)

[Greg]

There are no more U.S. made non custom knives worth talking about at less than around $200 or so.

Even most of the ones that say made in the USA are actually not. They are final assembled here from foreign made components, and foreign steels. Labor, raw materials, and liability costs are just too high here.

I'm curious- how would you rate the ZT 0200?

[Precision]

I'll play. Thread jack

I carry a knife most of the time. A simple 2.25 inch Gerber folder that I bought at Bass Pro for $20, more as a utility knife than anything else. Something small, easy and that I don't mind losing.

I have been giving real consideration to getting a more defensive minded knife that also will handle the mundane tasks that a EDC knife should; cutting rope, opening packages, slicing open plastic jugs, trimming off bits of wood for fitment purposes...

I am figuring I want to spent $50 or less and am not looking for something GIANT. Something for front pocket clip carry most likely but I am not set in stone on that. Back pockets are kinda full though with a wallet and a P3AT much of the time now.

Suggestions on types, design attributes to look for / avoid, specific knife recommendations or whatever are greatly appreciated.

thanks

[MarkD]

I carry a Kershaw Storm daily, here it is from the people I bought it from:

http://newgraham.com/store/product/496/ ... PE-KS1470/

I've carried it for a couple years now and am very happy with it. FWIW, I consider it a tool, not a weapon, and I'd only consider using it as a weapon if I had no other choice (meaning I can't get to that brick on the ground fast enough). It's a knife that gets carried a lot and used a little, and the fact that it hasn't rusted away to nothing in my pocket is a tribute to the stainless steel used in it.

[Greg]

I have a ZT 0200, a Blackout, 2 Leeks and a buncha Opinels. I think of all of them as tools, and 'last resort', 'improvised' weapons at best. I'd rather use a stick, or say my 4-d Maglite.

But I was curious about how Chris would react to the ZT, especially how strict he is w.r.t "made in the USA" standards. Excellent helpful response, btw.

I have a couple of knives that *would* fit in Chris' definition of a fighting knife, but they're not folders. And I wouldn't wear them other than in deep woods, anyway, as they're not *for* fighting, they're tools.

[Greg]

One other thing about the ZT-0200, it's pretty much a straight rip of an eariler Emerson design, the wave CQC. Actually it would be even closer to say it's acopy of SOGs copy of Emersons wave.

For $50 more, why not buy an Emerson? It's a better knife, better made.

Huh. I bought it because I wanted at least one knife that might be sturdy enough for abuse- like prying. At the time I didn't own any fixed blades yet. Fits my hand wonderfully but (I know now) I'm not fond of trying to sharpen recurves.

Not sure we're talking about the same model. I'm not terribly familiar with Emerson or SOG but ISTR Emerson CQC models I've seen remind me of the 0400, which I wouldn't buy (it and the Emersons are IMO hideous).

[Greg]

Well, yes. Though when I think Emerson I think tanto, which makes it worse.

But I hate the wave and can't stand thumb disks.

The handle shape has some similarities but also some differences. But then that ZT has some similarities to the Blackout as well, which makes a certain sense. (And the ZT has contoured scales, not flat, so it is more elliptical in cross section.)

[Kommander]

I carry a Benchmade Infidel. I am honestly not sure how good of a combat knife it is, but it sure is fun to play with at work.

[Whirlibird]

Unlike Chris, I prefer the under $100 knives.
While they may not be as brute strong or as tactical (whatever that means),
they aren't missed as much if I have to leave them stuck in the ribs of some skel on the other side of the country.

The Kershaw Junkyard Dog is a pretty neat handful despite the aircraft styling.

I keep a Benchmade 140 Nimravustucked behind my duty belt and have been using it for years as a hunting knife. Just don't look at the price.

The Cold Steel Reconseries is another favorite. An excellent grip shape and positive lock.
Same with the Voyager series.
The Scimitar (serrated) is being closed out. Good price.
As are the Vaquero's, even better prices.

Knife fighting is dark nasty stuff and your fighting style will make more of a decision on the style of knife you chose than many think.
Many who favor Tanto stye points are more concerned with stabbing, thrusting styles and the blade and handle styles and heavy guards reflect this.

Others prefer slashing, fluid movement, slicing styles of movement and choose a more curved blade with a smaller guard on the handle and often the serrations on the blade.

Whichever you chose, chose a design with a positive lock, good gripping surfaces (cause stuff gets slick quickly) and good steel in the blade.

[SeekHer]

First conclusive, take to the bank, rule of knife fighting—you will be cut, guaranteed!

To add a bit to this thread, late as usual...

Like Chris said there is no such a beastie as a defensive knife of any kind and also adding that the terms "tactical" and "Survival" are pure marketing hype...

The best, never been beaten, test for a fighting knife is a side of beef or pork! Ask your butcher if you can use it and take the knife (knives) that you are considering buying, grab hold of the knife hard and with all your strength stab the carcass...I mean really hard, like your life depended on it (and it might) and if you haven't sliced your fingers and the palm of the hand open, it's a fighting knife...85% to 90% of the so called tactical blades (commercial) will fail the carcass test…

This is mine but 5.7" (14.5cm) instead of 7" (17.78cm) and scaled to size without the brass plaque...

Made by Gene Anderson - SW Bladecraft:
Notice the pronounced quillion (bottom guard) and slight angle to the handle...to protect the fingers and the angle redirects the hands away from the blade…Also check out his Clip-point Hunting Knife, Item No. 9 --real pretty!

Although Chris and I have some minor differences as to blade and handle sizes--because of our hand sizes—we usually agree on blade and handle shapes and materials used and we both like very much the same maker, Bob Dozier of which Chris has, I believe, two and I more then that…Check out the KM16 – Freedom Fighter and I alternate between his KS-3 Professional Guides and KS-7 Wilderness knives for daily carry on my pack waist belt and his K-18 Straight Personal in a horizontal sheath on my belt…

Another knife brand worth serious consideration is the D.H. Russell knives by Grohmann Knivesoutdoorsman’s knives either the original #1 Canadian Knife (4”) for daily carry or the #3 Boat, Army, Yacht knife or the #4 Survival knife (5½”) as issued to Canadian forces as a fighter/survival knife…
They are heavy duty, built to last, good steel (sharpen & retains an edge) and most of all, under $100…I prefer the original bevel to the flat grind although I have both and with either Rosewood or my preference Stag handles…