Need a construction guy's help

[JAG2955]

Okay, here we go.

First pic is the framing of the roof, from the inside, looking toward the carport.

Second pic is what I now believe is a board on top of the wall, just to give the outside drywall a place to be screwed into. The top is towards the center of the garage, the bottom is towards the carport. I'm no expert, but I bet that wall is supposed to be tied into the joists a little better. It may just be attached at the end to the other walls.

Third pic is the outside wall/carport intersection, showing the failing drywall.

If need be, I can do a drawing or more pics, considering this is free info.

[Netpackrat]

I'm just a dumb-ass mechanic, and don't know a whole lot about construction, but why in the fuck would anybody ever use drywall in an exterior application like that?

[JAG2955]

I'm just a dumb-ass mechanic, and don't know a whole lot about construction, but why in the fuck would anybody ever use drywall in an exterior application like that?

Yeah, anytime that I start digging around in my house(s), I start to get really disappointed in the quality. I found out that they used cellulose in at least some of the exterior walls here.

Definitely going to GC and supervise the construction of my forever house.

[rightisright]

I think I misunderstood the original post. Does the carport have solid walls or is it open to the elements on three sides?

If the second is the case, I'd rip that drywall right off. I've seen water-resistant drywall (the green boards) used in enclosed carports and sheds but it's not the right way to do it. It is not doing anything to hold together the structure and you may be able to get a better look at the framing connections.

[JAG2955]

I think I misunderstood the original post. Does the carport have solid walls or is it pretty much open to the elements?

The carport is completely open, except for the back wall, which it shares with the garage, in picture 3. The service door there enters into the garage.

[rightisright]

I'm a bit concerned about those 2x4s that are supporting the roof ridge. It looks like the builder omitted collar ties to gain more headroom. Are the 2x4s over a load bearing wall? If there is a straight load path down to the main floor beam it should be okay. Still, not the right way to do it and it would fail inspection here.

[JAG2955]

Nope, they're in the middle of the garage's 24' span. Every one except one is on a sistered 2x12.

[rightisright]

Nope, they're in the middle of the garage's 24' span. Every one except one is on a sistered 2x12.

Oy. Is there any noticeable deflection in the (2)2x12s? What is your snow load like there?

[JAG2955]

Nope, they're in the middle of the garage's 24' span. Every one except one is on a sistered 2x12.

Oy. Is there any noticeable deflection in the (2)2x12s? What is your snow load like there?

Nope. Snow load is zero. South Texas. Not in a hurricane area.

[rightisright]

Well, that's good news. Collar ties are usually only spec'd in areas of high wind and/or snow loads. And with the newer metal rafter-ridge connectors, they are being phased out in those areas, too.

It is quite strange why someone installed those "T-ed" 2x4s, though.

Anywho, I'd remove the drywall. Add cats (2x6s on the flat every 24") between those two joists where the 2x6 is centered over the top of the garage/carport wall. Use structural screws here... through the joist into the cat and then down through the top of the cat into the top of the wall. That should solve your problem.

Out here, the Home Despot sells a primed T1-11 style composite sheet (that is actually cheaper than T1-11) type stuff that I used for a shed behind my shop.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SmartSide-48 ... +sheathing