Need a construction guy's help

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JAG2955
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 9:21 pm

Re: Need a construction guy's help

Post by JAG2955 »

Thanks! I really appreciate the help.

So it'll be 2x6s, cut to 14.5 (or whatever, my joists are 16" on center), and laid perpendicular and flat to that 2x6 in the second picture? Screw through the adjoining joists into the end grain (3.5" screws?), then down into that 2x6 with 2.5" screws? I'll use Spax if I can find them, I'm a big fan.

Do I really need to rip down the drywall? Or can I just put the T1-11 over it? I'd like to insulate the garage roof eventually, it it'll make a difference.
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Vonz90
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Re: Need a construction guy's help

Post by Vonz90 »

rightisright wrote:Well, that's good news. Collar ties are usually only spec'd in areas of high wind and/or snow loads. And with the newer metal rafter-ridge connectors, they are being phased out in those areas, too.

It is quite strange why someone installed those "T-ed" 2x4s, though.

Anywho, I'd remove the drywall. Add cats (2x6s on the flat every 24") between those two joists where the 2x6 is centered over the top of the garage/carport wall. Use structural screws here... through the joist into the cat and then down through the top of the cat into the top of the wall. That should solve your problem.

Out here, the Home Despot sells a primed T1-11 style composite sheet (that is actually cheaper than T1-11) type stuff that I used for a shed behind my shop.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SmartSide-48 ... +sheathing
This is fine, but don't reinstall drywall in an exterior application, it will just crack some time down the road. Sheath it and then either do a vinyl beadboard or plank ceiling that is made for exterior use. Vent it if it is a dead space. If living space above I would also throw some wrap too in addition to the insulation.

* I am a mech E not a construction guy but I've also rehabed a few houses.
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Netpackrat
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Re: Need a construction guy's help

Post by Netpackrat »

rightisright wrote:Out here, the Home Despot sells a primed T1-11 style composite sheet (that is actually cheaper than T1-11) type stuff that I used for a shed behind my shop.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SmartSide-48 ... +sheathing
That looks like what I built my shed out of when we bought this house. We have snow load, lots of wind. I've painted it exactly once, and it is still doing fine over 12 years later.
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evan price
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Re: Need a construction guy's help

Post by evan price »

Drywall absorbs moisture and expands. I would remove the drywall. T-1-11 works great. Lowes has a product called "Smartside Plytanium 38" which I've used for soffits, gable ends, sheds, garages, etc. and it is strong and takes paint well.
I would say also to add some rigidity to put girts in between the purlins supporting the drywall. I don't know your wind loads out there but wind under the carport will cause torsional stresses.
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rightisright
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Re: Need a construction guy's help

Post by rightisright »

JAG2955 wrote:Thanks! I really appreciate the help.

So it'll be 2x6s, cut to 14.5 (or whatever, my joists are 16" on center), and laid perpendicular and flat to that 2x6 in the second picture? Screw through the adjoining joists into the end grain (3.5" screws?), then down into that 2x6 with 2.5" screws? I'll use Spax if I can find them, I'm a big fan.

Do I really need to rip down the drywall? Or can I just put the T1-11 over it? I'd like to insulate the garage roof eventually, it it'll make a difference.
3.5" are good. Screw into the endgrain and also toe-screw if you can. I'd also throw a few 5" screws through the 2x6 cats, through the drywall nailer (the long 2x6) and into the top wall plate.

I'd definitely rip out the drywall in the carport ceiling. Originally, I didn't realize it was completely open on three sides.
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